Paris Top 10 Collections :Mugler
Nicola Formichetti's womenswear debut reincarnates the spirit of the quintessential Mugler woman - part space-age alien, part silver screen goddess. Masterfully styled and memorably presented, the label's exaggerated vision is pushed to provocative new extremes. In place of lingerie, subliminal three-dimensional sculptured elements under translucent garments distort and reconfigure the body into strangely beautiful sci-fi contours. Unpeeling latex layers and organically graphic cutaways manage to be both sensually evocative and stunningly futuristic reveal provocatively sheer panels and bold slashes of skin. Innovatively contemporary rubbers and plastics are pleated and folded into strangely fragile interpretations of body armor. A dark, feral energy is evoked through lushly piled fur boleros and monochrome animal print sheers. Strong, lean, complex yet strangely reminiscent shapes define the label's rebirth as a contemporary, relevant proponent of theatrical power dressing. Sensual blacks and navy blues alternate with sleekly clinical cobalt, peach and brilliant white. Overlaying Mugler's era-defining Eighties silhouettes with thought-provoking detail, Formichetti and designer Sébastien Peigné embody a new breed of clinical, twenty-first century glamour.